A Leg To Stand On

In this post I’ll be discussing the process of putting the legs together – not to say that they’re 100% complete right now, however they distinctly look like legs and there were some valuable lessons learned along the way, so it seems like a good time to make a post 🙂

Leg lying down.So  what we have here is the leg inner plate lying down with all of the assorted struts and bracing pieces lying to its right. Because the parts I cut out were less than perfect every time I was applying a piece to the inner plate I would have to whittle/sand down the edges to try and make it as level as possible. Despite my best efforts this process proved to be nigh impossible and I reconciled myself to having to touch it up after I had glued them down to the best of my ability.

After several hours of whittling, sanding and gluing I got this result:

Leg with all internals attached.

 

This is what it came to look like once I had managed to properly attach all of the pieces. You can definitely see some of the gaps in the pieces in this image though, and this is as a result of not being able to accurately cut the edges down and keep them as straight as I would have liked. For the most part everything is still quite thoroughly attached, but I was worried about the torque on the legs during turns so I took an extra step before putting the top plate over the legs.

In the above image you can see how I’ve used plastic “sawdust” that I collected from the process of cutting out all of the parts and then sprinkled it along the edges of the pieces I’m trying to join together. What this allows me to do is apply enough solvent that it turns the plastic so viscous it can easily fill any gaps in the seam. Once that solvent dissolves it leaves behind solid plastic that may as well have always been one piece. One issue I had here was an inability to be absolutely certain that the edges were perfectly straight (perpendicular to the leg inner plate). I did what I could by holding a cardboard box up against the pieces and letting them dry using it to form a 90 degree angle, but it wasn’t totally perfect. Below is a picture showing that I repeated this process along the rest of the leg as well. This picture is while I was still doing it, which is why there are still some gaps at the bottom.
Additional reinforcement to ensure edges are properly contacting each other.

Once I had gone through and ensured that all the gaps were properly filled it was time to glue the top plate onto the rest of the leg. This posed a similar challenge to ensuring that it was aligned and making as much contact across the leg as possible. I had to whittle/sand down the leg in several places to maximize the contact. Once I’d done that I repeated the process of adding the sawdust and filling in any visible gaps. The result can be seen below after I had repeated all of the above process with the second leg as well.

Both legs completed – you need to mirror the notches to allow the ankles to attach properly later.

 

 

R2-D2

 

The Build:

The first thing I’ve done is get the parts for the actual R2-D2 frame cut out and set aside (I’ve decided on polystyrene plastic from McMaster Carr as my material of choice). The way the build process is broken down is essentially into five major components: Legs, Feet, Frame, Dome, and Skirt.

For no particular reason other than I felt it would be one of the more satisfying parts to begin with I decided to start with the frame. After many weeks spending time painstakingly cutting out paper templates and gluing them onto the polystyrene sheets, I finally was able to cut them out on a band saw I got access to.

The first step of building was mounting the rectangular verticals to the rings of the body to connect the bottom and lower rings.

View post on imgur.com

I then went on to the upper ring and attached the long verticals that will make up the majority of the body height. For added support at this stage the wider vertical panels, which will eventually have the legs attached to them. In the view below the bottom ring you see is actually the top-most ring. The legs will attach at the shoulder just above it.

View post on imgur.com

The rest of the long verticals resting at the bottom in the above picture have been attached in the next. I have then taken them and attached them to the two lower rings in the first picture. At this point the frame is about 75% complete and spans the full height of the droid. The parts that are not in pace are ring segments that well go between the verticals.

View post on imgur.com

At this point I needed to cut out more pieces to continue to make any kind of significant progress, so I had to call it quits. As of the time of this posting I’ve gotten additional parts laid out and am planning on getting them cut and ready for assembly hopefully sometime in mid-late October.

Setting Goals: Building My Own R2-D2

So I decided I needed a new project for the summer and it led me to what initially thought was some harmless daydreaming about building an R2-D2. Well, the thought got stuck in my head long enough that I ended up deciding to investigate it further. It turns out that there is already a community of people dedicated to exactly this endeavor. Seeing how big Star Wars fandom is in the world I really should have guessed that this was a thing already, but I guess I was unprepared for the vast amount of detail available. They have blueprints, part breakdowns, very precise measurements and more. Below is an image of one of the user’s complete R2’s as an example of how high quality they can get.

r2-example

Upon investigating, I saw that there were three primary materials used for construction. The one pictured above is made of the most desirable and difficult to work with – aluminum. Droids made of aluminum will frequently cost in excess of $3000 in aluminum alone. The additional electronics, motors, screws, bolts and tools can increase that further. This in addition to the fact that you need good tools to properly work with aluminum and that mistakes are essentially irreparable meant that I quickly ruled this out for myself.

The other two options were wood and polystyrene plastic. Honestly, both of these options would probably work for myself. The plastic and wood are similar in cost, with the wood likely being a bit cheaper and both are easy to work with, requiring only normal tools such as saws, dremels, routers, etc. to properly build with. In the end I opted for the Polystyrene plastic because a user had recently created a newly updated set of schematics with an R7/R8 skin that I thought looked especially cool.

r7-r8-skins

The skins pictured above immediately struck me as Boba/Jango-Fett esque and I fell in love with them. As soon as I saw it I decided that I had to make one in a Boba Fett paint scheme. The current plan is to have it ready for Pax East which is in April of 2017. Based on what I understand is a normal build time of 8-12 months I’ll have to make sure to put in plenty of effort for that to happen, haha!